Driving in India

I’ve been trying to think of a good way to describe driving on an Indian road. It is a totally different experience than that of driving in America, or anywhere else for that matter. It’s kinda like riding a Roller Coaster thru 5^th Avenue Macys in NYC. Well, not the speed, but there is so much going on, along the sides of the road, in the roads, everywhere, there is no way to take it all in and absorb it. In town, the fastest we ever goes is 30 kph.

If you have a few minutes, I will attempt to illustrate what you would see on a short drive through Varanasi…..

We hop into our auto (rickshaw). Ok, pause, let me explain what an “auto” is. It is a small 3-wheeled vehicle with a top cover, but the sides are open. They are smaller than an car, so you can maneuver around obstacles better. The driver sits up front and the passengers sit on the small bench behind him. Though if you have more than 4 people, you can sit up next to the driver. I have seen 11-12 people in one small auto before.

So, again, we hope into our auto and pull out down our small dirt alleyway to the main road. First thing you’ll notice is the dirt. Dirt, dirt, dirt, everywhere. The wheels kick up some dust, so you’re breathing it as well as seeing it everywhere. Alongside the road is small, purple shrine with orange flowers hanging on and around it. A strange looking idol sits inside with an incense bowl in front of it. A couple bicycle rickshaws sit next to it, their drivers (or would you say pedalers?) stand there, waiting for customers. Young lady in a bright, hot pink sari walks along. Oh, watch out for that cow patty! The guilty party is there, chewing its cud and meandering along the road. Or into the road… hit the brakes to avoid hitting it. Safely around the cow, now you pass an iron colored wagon, where a man serves chai. Next, a snack shop, a tea shop, another snack shop, cellphone shop, men gathered in front of all of them, talking, laughing, drinking tea, staring.

Around the corner we turn and slow to a stop, water buffalos taking their sweet time have caused a traffic jam. Waiting. Waiting. Ok, we are moving again, weaving around a bicyclist, then a motorcyclist. Dodge the stray, mangy looking dog. Pass a bucket shop that has every color you could want. Plastic cups, plates. Metal utensils. Soda stand. Cell phone shop. Shoes. Dresses. Sari material. Reds. Blues. Pinks. Greens. Oranges. Purples. All the while, weaving around other autos. Want to reach out and touch the guy riding his bike next to us, just cause he’s so close.

There’s three kids chasing each other. A lady washing out her pots. Two men squatting in their doorways, watching the traffic go by. A young boy flying a kite. Ox cart full of vegetables for sale. Young boy with various colorful balloons for sale. A couple muslim women in their black garb. Hindi lady in a florescent orange sari. And don’t forget the trash littering the sides, some in dark water. Some scattered among the dirt. Soldier man with rifle, that looks like it’s from WWI. More men drinking tea.

Amongst all that your eyes are trying to take in, you hear horns honking, beeping, tooting, blasting, blaring, jingling, ringing, all playing into the Indian Traffic Melody. And kids yelling, merchants calling out their wares, people talking, food frying, cows bellowing, dogs barking, whistles blowing.

Besides your eyes and your ears working overtime, then is the stupendous waves of various odors. While smelling sweet incense, fresh cow patties, rotten food, spicy chai, exhaust, urine, curry frying, trash, perfume, etc, you brain registers happiness, disgust, dread, peace, loathing, all for just a few seconds before the next smell and corresponding sentiment hits.

And if you happened to be on the back of a scooter instead of ahem, safely inside an auto, then you not only are trying to absorb all you are seeing, hearing and smelling, but also trying to maintain your balance. Usually one (girls) rides sidesaddle when a passenger on a  motorcycle or scooter, so balance is of utmost importance. And when you are weaving in and around other vehicles, going over dips and speedbumps, accelerating and braking frequently, it can be a challenge.

The other night while on the back of a scooter, we hit a traffic jam. Which means that everyone tries to get through any kind of opening they see, whether it is on their side of the road or the wrong side. We were at a standstill and from my perch, I could have touched four other vehicles around us. A few times I thought my toes would be scraped as a vehicle drove past us.

My description is a far cry from the real thing. But I hope you have gotten a small taste of Indian driving. It is quite stimulating to one’s prayer life. And is a most interesting time. :)

driving on the wrong side of the road

bicycle rickshaw