The Amazing, Incredible Dempster Highway

At the end of August, I found myself with some time on my hands. Both of my seasonal, summer jobs ended midway through the month and school didn't start back up till September. So, I had the idea of going north to Inuvik. It had been four years since I had visited and my friends wedding reception (I attended the wedding in FL back in May) was going to be during that time. So I figured "why not?" 

The plan was to drive the Alaska, Taylor and Top of the World highways from Fairbanks to Dawson City, Canada. From there, I would fly on AirNorth to Inuvik. AirNorth used to have commercial flights from Fairbanks to Dawson, as I have flown the entire way before. However, that no longer is possible, so I figured it would be a nice drive (roadtrip + fall colors in the mountains = amazing) to Dawson. It's one of my favorite little towns, I could spend a little time there, spend the night and fly out the next morning for the North. 

Everything went well. The drive from Fairbanks to Dawson was beautiful. Stopped for lunch at Fast Eddies (a must if you're in Tok) and then drove through Chicken, Alaska. The Top of the World Highway is a great experience. The dirt road weaves through the mountains, so the road itself can be treacherous, but the view is incredible. Arrived in Dawson, ate dinner at Sourdough Joe's (another good choice), enjoyed some ice cream (for Twyla) and headed to my campsite. Yes, I camped in my tent. :) 

car camping. :) 

The next morning, I awoke to fog, but thought nothing of it. Headed out to the airport (several miles from town), where the fog was even more dense. As I was checking in, they informed me my flight was delayed. The plane was coming from Whitehorse, but they had major fog there, so the plane wasn't able to leave. I sat around for awhile, but then I got hungry. Apparently, it was going to be another 2 hours before the plane was expected, so I drove back into town for some breakfast. (no, there is no restaurant at the airport, ha!)

Headed back to the airport about 10am. When I got there, the ticket agent informed me my flight was canceled and he could rebook me for two days later. I honestly thought he was joking with me. But no, he was serious. The flights from Dawson City to Inuvik are six days a week, but of course the next day was the one day they didn't fly. So, there I was- stuck in Dawson City for two days. Or was I? 

The ticket agent asked if I wanted to rebook for two days later or to cancel my itinerary. I told him a needed a few minutes. Ran through some scenarios in my head, texted Twyla about the road conditions and my dad to see what he thought. Decided to drive the rest of the way! I'm always ready for another adventure! :) 

at the beginning of the drive

It was a sunny, autumn day, so I was ready for a good (but long) day. I had to go back into town to gas up and check with the NWT Visitors Center about the road condition, so didn't get on the road until about 1130am. 

Let me tell you, there are not words good enough to describe to you the beauty of that drive! The pictures below might help you have a small idea of the amazing Arctic autumn scenery! 

my wee little car

There were so many places that I wanted to get out of my car and climb a rock or mountain. The fall colors were ablaze! And set against the clear blue sky, it was even more impressive! It was a day just to praise God for his amazing creation, which just reminds me of his almighty power. At one point I pulled over to soak in the sights. I could see for miles- hills covered with reds, oranges, yellows, high up in the mountains, threatening rain clouds in the distance. It was breathtaking. It was a moment of sensing the nearness of God; I didn't know whether I wanted to laugh or cry, sit or dance. Ah-mazing. 

Finally pulled into my friends' driveway just after 1am. Safe and sound. Had no problems the entire way. Praise the Lord. 

Enjoyed a very relaxing week (more on that in a later post). 

Then it came time to leave. I was to head out Monday morning, which meant I would get home Tuesday afternoon. School started Thursday, so I would have an extra day to do errands and unwind from traveling. Or so I thought....

The second half of my time in the North, the weather turned ugly. It rained almost every day and was cooling off. The day before I was to head out, the winds picked up as well, with gusts up to 70kph. We heard reports that campers were blown over on the Dempster. We talked it over Sunday night and decided we would make a decision Monday morning when we got up. 

Monday was still bad, so we waited around a bit, trying to gauge what the weather was going to do and how bad the road was.... Winds were still strong and rain kept coming. Monday afternoon, we received word that the two ferries I needed to cross had been shut down. Well, that really stopped any thought of leaving. 

pic of ferry while it was closed

Monday we waited all day. Tuesday we waited some more. Then got work, one of the ferries was still closed and they expected it to be 2 or 3 days before it reopened. So, Wednesday was another waiting day. And Thursday. 

Thursday afternoon about 330pm, we heard both ferries were open again, the 2nd one just to light travel (no 18wheelers). So, by 4pm I was on the road. Mr. D followed me in his big pickup for while, because we didn't know how bad the roads were. The 2nd ferry (the one we waited for the longest) was interesting. The river there was the highest they had seen it in about 10 years. Getting on was okay, a little rough, but made it just fine. Coming off though, it was at least 6 inches of soft mud, with big tracks with the previous vehicles had driven. For half a second, I thought I would bottom out and get stuck. But the Lord pushed me through and I made it! 

Drove till after midnight, when we finally pulled over to sleep. I've slept in the back seat of my car before, but just for an hour long nap, not a full night. I may be short, but that was too short for even me. I had to wake up and stretch a couple times, cause my legs were cramping from being curled up. Stayed plenty warm though. Woke up to dense fog and cold air. 

That was a long day, as I still had half the Dempster to drive, and then the rest of the way home. I think it was about a 16 hour day that second day. Made it home Friday night about 9pm. So, missed the first two days of classes, but was out of my control. Thankfully, my teachers were understanding. 

The drive back home was still incredible, even though the weather wasn't as nice as before. I watched the sunset high up in the mountains. The sun was on my right hand side and across the way were snowcapped mountains that were shades of pink and orange as the sun lowered. Another incredible moment to witness! 

second ferry crossing

snow in the mountains

not so clean anymore

saw a couple grizzlys on the way home

ferry outside of Dawson City